Apologies for all the typos etc but under the circumstances I'll have to edit this post when conditions are more favourable; ie warm and windless. Connection is great here though, or I wouldn't have made the effort.
After a late start at 0930 - I didn't hear my watch alarm, which is becoming a persistent problem, we did our best to make up time but were frustrated in the end by a section of the route that is now closed, so had to make up our own down rutted and muddy tracks to the main highway. We'd noted earlier that campsites were going to be hard to find, so now we're set up in Camping Le Temple, quite a way from where we'd ideally like to be but grateful to have found somewhere to sleep without the risk of a knock on the door by a forest ranger or the Guardia at 2 in the morning. We arrived here to find the office unmanned so tried to sort ourselves out. This site is clearly a permanent one - that is the pitches are reserved year-round and "touring" pitches are few - and all being used by the residents to park their cars.
The "patron" announced that the "site she is full" but since we'd had 15 minutes to case the joint we were able to point out 3 plots that would be big enough for us. Good thing too, as we didn't fancy the idea of searching for one of those elusive Wild Camping Spots at nearly wineo'clock.
Its been a bit chilly for the past 2 or 3 days and this has put a bit of a blight on things from the lazing in the sun point of view. The other Points of View, though, have been outstanding. We've seen a huge variety of architecture, both natural - rocks and unnatural - buildings - or rather what's left of them:
Rocky bits that rival Norway in their stony grandeur:
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| a one-way street. At least, that's what we hope! |
The weather, as I said, hasn't been quite what we expected for summer in Spain, but compared to what the folks back home have experienced we're probably quite well off. However, setting up for the night in a Force 5 to 6 is a bit challenging given we're sleeping "up top" and this can be a bit rocky in a wind.
We were chatting to some ex-pat Brits yesterday while waiting for the vultures to appear (of which more later) and I mentioned that there were items known as "bonking bars" that one could purchase; these fit under the back corners of the truck's chassis and provide props to prevent the body rolling around when..it's windy. OK? That's how it was explained to me, anyway. What else could they be for?
The tracks for the last 3 days have been either very "close" or "wide open". By that I mean that yesterday morning, for example, I was reminded of driving in The Bush in Belize. The trees overhung the track so much that we had to bash our way through with only a few feet of the trail visible in front of us. This made progress very slow since I didn't want to run full tilt into a nasty rock or rut. Of the latter there were plenty, and all, like Belize, full of muddy water that could be 3 cms or a metre deep. No way of knowing unless we were prepared to get out and probe each one. If we'd done that we'd still be up there, humming and Hah-ing about the risks. As it was, we just blasted through and Elly's previously scratched paintwork is now nicely camouflaged with Pyrennean mud.
We did, though, take every opportunity to stop and take photos, even diverting off the main route to do it. We haven't yet managed to explore any "villages abandonnees" but this will come, we hope. Of the other diversions, the bird watcher's hide at...was a highlight of today. Apart from the rocks and cliffs - amazing in themseves - we wanted to spend longer watching the soaring flight of the Griffon vultures around us. Unfortunately the biting wind- nay, gale - kicked that idea into the long grass pretty quickly.
The exploration of the little hermitage and bigger castle were shortened for the same reason - the temperature has been hovering about 13C all day, and with the wind chill that's probably brought it down to single figures...and us in shorts and T-shirts. Well, not for long, as this shows..
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| "Hurry up...I'm bloody freezing". |
We had an enforced off-route excursion to find fuel and groceries in Ayerbe, a stilted conversation with a petrol pump attendant who had a friend in Cardiff, and a less interesting one with the locals in the grocer's. The former was helpful, the latter couldn't-care-less. We had a similar response to our "Gracias"later, when negotiating a traffic jam in a tiny village. A farm wagon was manoeuvred out of our way and we were waved on with a "F*ck Off out of my village" response to our thanks...As a result of our discussion regarding this bit of Inter-European co-operation , we missed the next track junction, sped off downhill in the wrong direction and then spent 30 minutes sorting ourselves out.
Anyway, more on this will have to wait as supper's ready and the Inner Man must be fed. More photos and the inevitable edits to come when the weather improves. Bye!
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